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A city with a reputation as rich and drinkable as a pint of the black stuff, Dublin remains somewhere with a mood and pace of its own. Its stately period buildings and urban squares have helped it to age well, but it’s not really for the set-piece sights that visitors come calling in their millions each year, more the weft and warp of its street-level buzz, myriad pubs and intriguing cultural history. There are bigger cities and there are more spectacular cities, but there aren’t many with more personality.