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For many travellers, the dome-dotted capital of the Tuscany region quite simply is the Renaissance, and its museums, galleries and churches together contain what experts often consider to be the continent’s most impressive collection of artworks. One of the great Italian destinations? Without any doubt, and alongside its dazzling past (many of the key Renaissance artists actually lived and worked here), it also fizzes with a cutting-edge energy that marks it out as a 21st-century city. From its trattorias to its traffic jams, and from its basilicas to its bell towers, it remains a place apart.