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Confident, cultured and threaded with centuries-old canals, the Netherlands’ urban centrepiece counts among Europe’s most extraordinary cities. Forget the hash-and-hookers novelty – Amsterdam’s soul lies more in its remarkable galleries, its 17th-century architecture and the convivial, almost village-like mood found in its artier quarters. From its flower stalls and bike bells to its canal houses and colour-splashed narrowboats, the Dutch capital carries with it a special atmosphere, creating a place where alternative lifestyles thrive and the day can be as free – or as full – as desired.